Ep. 51: Subtraction Cutting, with Julian Roberts

Ep. 51: Subtraction Cutting, with Julian Roberts

Author: Caroline and Kathryn December 2, 2021 Duration: 1:20:23

Julian Roberts, a creative pattern cutter, teacher and academic joins Kathryn to talk about his unique method of creating garments and patterns called Subtraction Cutting. This was a hugely inspirational chat and I hope that it brings you all a fresh perspective on creative pattern cutting. A big thank you to Julian for joining me on the podcast!


Caroline Barulis and Kathryn Roberts have spent their careers as professional pattern makers, pulling apart the blueprints of clothing. On their Fashion Half Cut podcast, they bring that behind-the-scenes expertise to your ears, paired with a fortnightly drink and the easy rapport of two friends who know their craft inside and out. This isn't a glossy, surface-level fashion chat. Instead, you'll hear genuine conversations about how garments are actually constructed-the precision of pattern cutting, the nuances of sewing, and the true meaning of craftsmanship. They sit down with real industry experts, from designers to technicians, to pull back the curtain on what it really takes to make the clothes we wear and love. The tone is warm, insightful, and full of laughter, diving into the wider fashion industry's quirks and challenges without any pretension. If you have ever been curious about the journey from a sketch to a finished piece in your wardrobe, or if you simply enjoy thoughtful talk from knowledgeable people who don't take themselves too seriously, this podcast offers a refreshing and genuinely informative listen. Tune in for a blend of technical knowledge and relaxed humor that makes the often-intimidating world of fashion feel accessible and fun.
Author: Language: English Episodes: 55

Fashion Half Cut
Podcast Episodes
Ep. 41: Explaining Pockets [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 47:52
Who doesn't love it when you buy and dress and IT HAS POCKETS?! Our beloved pockets are an integral part of garment construction and they come in many different shapes and sizes. Join us to talk through some of our favou…
Ep. 40: The Importance of Inner Garment Construction [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 57:28
The inside of your garments are just as important as the outside, sometimes even more so! So we're talking fusing, corsets, boning, shoulder pads, sleeve rolls, bustles, cups and all those hidden components of your garme…
Ep. 39: Life as a Bridal Designer, with Charlotte Wilden [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 54:12
Charlotte Wilden runs her own bespoke bridal service and does everything from the initial design, pattern cutting, sewing and even the final embroidery and hand finishing. She has a beautiful design aesthetic which is ev…
Ep. 38: How to Fit a Garment [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 1:07:03
We're bringing you all our tips and tricks on how to get a beautifully fitting garment and what to watch out for in a fitting. From measurements, to bust points to balance lines we've got it all! show notes: www.fashionh…
Ep. 37: Launching an Indie Pattern Label, with Vanessa Hansen [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 1:15:58
There is so much more to launching your own pattern label than meets the eye. Vanessa Hansen, professional pattern cutter, has recently launched her own indie pattern label and she's here to share her experiences, lesson…
Ep. 37: Launching an Indie Pattern Label, with Vanessa Hansen [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 1:15:58
There is so much more to launching your own pattern label than meets the eye. Vanessa Hansen, professional pattern cutter, has recently launched her own indie pattern label and she's here to share her experiences, lesson…
Ep. 36: Constructing Facings & Linings [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 1:07:34
This episode is all about the mysterious world of linings and facings. Why we use them, how we construct them and the difference between the two. We also have a few pattern makers tricks for you that might help to solve…
Ep. 35. The Grey Areas of Pattern Cutting [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 1:11:41
As pattern cutters, things aren't always clear cut. Its our job to use our experience and knowledge and sometimes actually just our instinct to interpret the correct alteration or shape to put onto a pattern. Things aren…
Ep 34: Costume Making, with Declan Jackson [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 54:43
We are joined by Declan Jackson, professional pattern cutter turned costume maker. He shares his journey from his start in the fashion industry to his move into the film industry. Having already got some big name product…