This is the weekly colum
Nebbiolo is the extraordinary grape closely identified with the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy and particularly with the region’s great wines: Barolo and Barbaresco. Let’s explore.
The origins of the nebbiolo name is a bit foggy. It likely derives from the Italian word “nebbia” or the Piedmontese word “nebia.” Both mean “fog”—a reference to fogs that come to the Langhe region, where the grapes are grown, during the October harvest.
Italian Piedmont region vineyard
Nebbiolo grapes make wines with bold flavors and very high levels of tannins and acidity, which is why they require several years of aging to become drinkable, and can age for decades. While the wines are bold, the color is not—more the pale ruby also associated with pinot noir.
Nebbiolo flowers early and ripens late, so vineyard site selection is important. Vines are vigorous, requiring significant management to ensure quality grapes. This finicky nature challenges grape growers and increases the price, but the reward is some of the world’s most prestigious wines.
Barolo and Barbaresco—named for the small villages in the center of their production areas—are the iconic nebbiolo wines. They are produced in adjacent areas in the Langhe hills of Piedmont. Barolo is southwest of the city of Alba. Barbaresco is northeast of Alba, 14 miles away from Barolo.
Although geographically close, the wines have somewhat different characteristics. Barolo—called “the wine of kings and the king of wines”—is more robust and full-bodied with higher tannins and acidity. And the “kings” quote is not just a clever 18th century tagline. The Savoys, Italy’s first (and last) kings really did love Barolo.
Barbaresco is more approachable and elegant with softer tannins and lighter body. There is a royalty quote about Barbaresco, too: “We call Barolo the king, and Barbaresco the queen.”
Italian DOCG regulations are strict for both. Barolo must have a minimum of 38 months total aging, with a minimum of 18 months in wood. Barbaresco must have a minimum of 26 months total aging, with a minimum of nine months in wood. In both cases, winemakers routinely exceed the minimum requirements.
Tasting notes
• Riva Leone Barbaresco DOCG 2017: Prominent tannins, as expected in Barbaresco, well-balanced by acidity. Recommend decanting, pretty much standard on a young Barbaresco. $35 Link to my review
• Pio Cesare Barolo Pio DOCG 2018: Polished, approachable, delicious from signature maker. Rich dark fruits framed by approachable tannins and oak. You can let this age gracefully, but when decanted it is wonderful now. $75-85 Link to my review
Last round
Why did the math student do multiplication problems on the floor? Because the teacher insisted students could not use tables. Wine time.
Email: wine@cwadv.com
Newsletter: gusclemens.substack.com
Website: Gus Clemens on Wine website
Facebook: facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/
Twitter (X): @gusclemens
Long form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal
Links worth exploring
Diary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.
As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.
This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit
gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe
