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Happy New Year. We survived another sun circumnavigation. Sunlight grows slowly longer. Spring rebirth looms over the sere, cold-swept horizon. Endure these last temperature-challenging months, and we emerge into warm, bright shining mornings. Two wine types provide solace during this frost-dusted interlude: Porto and sherry.
Porto and sherry are fortified wines produced on the Iberian peninsula. Porto in Portugal in the Douro Valley region and sherry in the Jerez region of Andalusia, Spain. Both are sweet wines with compensating acidity. Considered among the greatest fortified wines, both deliver succor when shivery winds swirl.
Porto typically has an ABV of 19-22%. Sherry is similar at 15-22%. Higher alcohol delivers comforting warming sensations. And, admit it, a pleasuring slight buzz.
Sherry pairs well with nuts, olives, cured meats—common winter appetizers. Porto pairs with chocolate desserts and blue cheese, notable conclusions to winter repasts. The two can bracket a memorable winter feast. And what better time to fatten up and escape than when frigid flurries fly?
Production of Porto wine dates to Roman times. The Porto we enjoy today developed in the 17th century when British merchants sought alternatives to French wine. Portugal’s fecund Douro Valley—a UNESCO World Heritage Site today—beckoned. Grapes grew from headwaters in Spain to the port city of Porto—thus the name. Most of the wine is made in Vila Nova de Gaia directly across the Douro. You can walk across a bridge to get there. Wine ships from the port of Porto.
Sherry has similar back story. Viticulture dates to BC Roman times. Even under Moorish conquest (711-1264 AD), sherry production continued in spite of Islamic alcohol prohibitions. In the Spanish age of exploration (think Columbus and conquistadores), ships sailed around the world with sherry in their holds. Sherry production involves a “solera system” where wines from succeeding vintages are blended and exposed to air. This oxidation is the reason the wine became better, not worse, on long sea voyages.
Both Porto and sherry are delicious with unique flavors. Certainly they are comforting in the depth of winter. They also can be enjoyed any time of the year.
Tasting notes
• Warre’s Vintage Porto 2016: Plush dessert in a glass with alcohol oomph (20%). Wonderfully expressive dark fruits. Elegant, balanced, charming. Sweetness deftly paired with excellent acidity. $100 Link to my review
• Lustau East India Solera Sherry: Sweet, smooth, velvety. Excellent balance of sweetness and acidity. Fascinating interplay of tangy, salty notes of oloroso (80% of blend) and the sweetness of pedro ximénez. $28 Link to my review
Last round
What do you call someone who drinks fortified Spanish wine? A person who sherry-picks their alcohol.
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