043 - The Curren Whisperer with Jimmy Metyko

043 - The Curren Whisperer with Jimmy Metyko

Author: Surf Splendor September 12, 2024 Duration: 2:54:31

It could have happened anytime, anywhere. But our guest's story takes place in Santa Barbara, California from 1980 to 1983. Four short years that saw a giant leap forward in the development of West Coast surfing, design, performance and image. It was set off by a rare combination of individuals, innovation and illumination,against a backdrop of some of the best seasons of surf in two decades. 

Some have called this California's Halcyon Days. But many of us may not have known about this giant leap in surfing had it not been for a modest 19 year old Texan with a slight drawl who just moved to Santa Barbara in late 1979 to attend the highly regarded Brooks Institute for photography. The Texan would go on to document a period in surfing that would go on to reverberate in the surfing world for decades. 

Our Guest Jimmy Metyko, from Houston, Texas, has maintained a multi-faceted, successful career path in fields of photography, art, graphic design, fashion design, brand creation, development and marketing by the application of one simple strategy: staying ahead of the curve. And in some cases, even designing the curve.

We could go on and on about his accomplishments and career both in and out of surfing but, we're here to talk about a small slice of his life. His recently released book, Shaping Surf History, by Rizzoli Publishing, is out now and it documents a very special time and place in surfing. It is the Stuff of legend and lore. He documents the rise of a quiet and unassuming surfing savant, his mentor and shaper, a sudden arrival of a world Champion and a crew of surfers that would go on to shape the future of surfing. I am of course talking about Tom Curren, Al Merrick, Shaun Tomson and the Santa Barbara surf scene. Jimmy Metyko is our guest on this episode. 

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Hosted by the Breuer Brothers, Hardcore Surf History is a deep dive into the culture, characters, and pivotal moments that have shaped the sport. This isn't a surface-level recount of famous contests; it's an archival excavation led by two passionate historians who treat surfing's legacy with both reverence and a critical eye. Each episode feels like a conversation in a dusty surf shop after hours, unpacking forgotten innovations, controversial figures, and the local lore that mainstream narratives often miss. You'll hear detailed accounts of board design evolution, the gritty realities of early surf exploration, and personal stories from icons whose contributions resonate today. The brothers connect historical dots to contemporary debates, examining how yesterday's decisions influence the waves and lineups of the present. Produced by Surf Splendor, this podcast serves the curious surfer and the dedicated enthusiast, offering substance and context often absent from today's media. It’s for anyone who believes understanding where surfing came from is crucial to navigating its future. Tune in for meticulously researched stories that capture the soul, struggle, and pure stoke embedded in surfing's enduring history.
Author: Language: English Episodes: 49

Hardcore Surf History
Podcast Episodes
049 - What If . . . ? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

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On this episode of Hardcore Surf History, It's Chandler's worst nightmare! Surf Contests. From the thrilling spectacle to philosophically divisive, we explore how surf contests have propelled progression, innovation and…
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042 - At First Sight [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

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Duration: 52:06
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040 - Shoulda Been Here Yesterday [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

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039 - Matt George [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 2:17:30
On this episode of Hardcore Surf History Bonus Section, Tyler goes full on surf nerd with the legendary Matt George. They discuss his new book 'In Deep' and get the real story behind behind 'In Gods Hands', his win at th…