100 Years of Menswear by Cally Blackman

In today’s podcast, we delve into Cally Blackman’s 100 Years of Menswear - a sweeping exploration of men’s fashion from 1900 to the early 2000s, revealing how the male wardrobe became one of the most potent instruments of cultural identity and rebellion. Far more than a catalogue of suits and streetwear, Blackman’s work examines the social codes, historical upheavals, and subcultural innovations that shaped what men wore, why they wore it, and what it meant.

We’ll trace how the austere tailoring of Edwardian Britain evolved into the Ivy League nonchalance of the 1950s, how military uniforms became mainstream, and how flamboyant rebellion—from Teddy Boys to punks—radically expanded the boundaries of masculine dress. Along the way, you’ll discover how icons like the Duke of Windsor, David Bowie, and Giorgio Armani influenced silhouettes across generations and why functional garments like trench coats, leather jackets, and work boots outlived the contexts that created them.

We discuss the birth of subcultural style as a political tool—how zoot suits provoked riots, how Mods turned tailoring into a youthful revolution, and how hip-hop and streetwear transformed global fashion from the pavement up. We’ll unpack key transitions: from Savile Row to sportswear, from rebellion to luxury branding, from uniformity to expression, culminating in the high-low, postmodern mix of early 2000s style.

As Blackman’s book reveals, menswear is not simply about clothing—it’s about storytelling through fabric, silhouette, and subtext. By understanding a century of dress, we decode how culture has worn its identity. Whether you’re a fashion historian, designer, or style enthusiast, this episode offers a masterclass in the evolution of masculine style—and how to read the deeper signals behind every look.

A Men's Styling Podcast Made with LOVE by The VOU's Expert Image Consultants.