🌱 Ep 29. Cotton, Soil & Solar: Re‑imagining the "Quiet King" of Textiles with Catherine Bottrill and Felix Bartlett (x Fashion District)

🌱 Ep 29. Cotton, Soil & Solar: Re‑imagining the "Quiet King" of Textiles with Catherine Bottrill and Felix Bartlett (x Fashion District)

Author: Mili Tharakan February 16, 2026 Duration: 1:11:17
This is a special episode in partnership with Fashion District London. In this episode of No Ordinary Cloth, we go back to where the cotton story truly begins: in the soil and in small farming communities. Mili is joined by Felix Bartlett, founder of Biothread, and Dr. Catherine Bottrill, co‑founder of ACE (Affordable Clean Environment) Cotton, to explore how regenerative farming, microbial science and clean energy can transform the future of the world's favourite fibre. Together they unpack the small and large scale cotton farming industry and ask what it would mean for cotton to become a force for regeneration: rebuilding soil health, cutting emissions and creating real wealth and dignity for the people who grow it. In this episode, we talk about: * Why cotton is still the "quiet king" of textiles – beloved by the richest and the poorest, and deeply bound up with power, politics and identity. * The difference between conventional, organic and regenerative cotton – and why "regenerative" is as much a process and pathway as an end state. * How Biothread uses microbial consortia and field trials to reduce synthetic fertiliser use, improve yields and strengthen soil health in cotton systems. * The social realities behind cotton: farmer debt, crop failure, climate volatility and why soil degradation sits at the heart of many of these crises. * ACE Cotton's village‑level model in South Asia – combining solar irrigation, clean household energy and biodiversity projects to support just decarbonisation. * How brand decarbonisation targets, farm‑level emissions and smallholder energy access can be aligned so climate action also builds resilience and opportunity. * The role of data, measurement and software in proving impact – from input reductions and yield changes to carbon, water and livelihoods metrics. * Farmer trust, pilots and "show and tell": what it takes to introduce new technologies and financing models into communities where risk is already high. * Why cotton must be protected as the most widely used natural fibre if we are to avoid a fully synthetic future for fashion. *  The power of storytelling in shifting cotton from "cheap commodity" to living system – and how Felix and Catherine draw on their own backgrounds to do that work. Pilio Group ACE Village [https://www.piliogroup.com/] BioThread [https://www.biothread.co.uk/the-science] Fashion District London [https://www.fashion-district.co.uk/] Books on the history of cotton explore its role as a global commodity that shaped modern capitalism, industrialisation, and imperialism 1. Empire of Cotton: A Global History : Sven Beckert 2. A History of the Cotton Industry : Anthony Burton 3. Cotton (Textiles that Changed the World) : Beverly Lemire Connect with me: LinkedIn [https://www.linkedin.com/in/mjtharakan/]  I  Buy me a Coffee [https://buymeacoffee.com/noordinarycloth] Recommended listening: Ep 25. Turning Agri Waste to Cellulose Fibre [https://open.spotify.com/episode/1co7nY56W9cnxDwge24jJB?si=2ba41fa32b434051] Ep 14. Farm to Fibre [https://open.spotify.com/episode/7pkROyfOqLcGKROgefvVbG?si=2aa581635bf74f62] Cover art: Photo by Siora, Photography on Unsplash Music: Inspired Ambient, Orchestraman

Mili Tharakan believes the fabric of our lives is quite literal. In her No Ordinary Cloth: Intersection of textiles, emerging technology, craft and sustainability podcast, she explores the profound, often invisible role textiles play, arguing they are our most intimate and pervasive technology. With over two decades as a smart textiles designer and researcher, Mili guides conversations that feel like pulling a thread and watching an entire world unravel. You’ll hear from material scientists engineering fabrics from unexpected sources, artists weaving cultural narratives into their looms, and bio-chemists reimagining sustainability at a molecular level. This isn't just about fashion trends; it's about the frontier where ancient craft meets cutting-edge innovation. Each episode delves into the stories of makers and thinkers who are fundamentally redefining what cloth can be and do-from responsive textiles that interact with their environment to new paradigms for circularity and ethical production. The dialogue sits at a rich crossroads, equally appealing to the hands of a hobbyist weaver, the mind of a tech enthusiast, and the conscience of an eco-conscious citizen. Tune in for a thoughtful, grounded exploration of the material that dresses us, shelters us, and increasingly, connects us to a more thoughtful future.
Author: Language: English Episodes: 35

No Ordinary Cloth: Intersection of textiles, emerging technology, craft and sustainability
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