How To DIY Style: Sewing, Pattern Drafting, Using Patterns, featuring a DIY Military Inspired Jumpsuit
Today’s episode is on DIY Style, sewing, drafting your own blocks and making your own patterns versus using store-bought patterns or printing patterns online, and will discuss design details and components of the jumpsuit I’m wearing; I've paired it with my Seed of Life Unisex Tanktop in Heather Grey, available in different colors and styles for men, women, children, youth, and babies at AuricWear.com and Etsy.com/shop/AuricWear. Feel free to listen, watch, or view the accompanying post at Subversive.Style.
Patterns:
Patterns are like a blueprint and instruction manual for how to make something using fabric and sewing or serging to piece the different parts together.
Buying A Pattern:
Although buying a pattern seems like it would be an effortless task, you still do have a lot of cutting-out, and it’s not necessarily easy and breezy by any means.
Printing A Pattern:
I will say that I went through all the trouble of printing a pattern, taping it together, cutting it out, and finding that the resulting toile or muslin didn’t at all fit although I’d carefully made sure the size was according to my measurements… It can be quite disappointing to complete all those tasks only to find the pattern itself is a fail!
Pattern Symbols
Familiarize yourself with different pattern symbols, or use the key on your pattern.
Pattern Drafting and Pattern Making:
To begin drafting, you’ll want to make sure you have a tape measure, ruler or yardstick, hip curve, french curve, pattern wheels, scissors for paper, shears for fabric, interfacing appropriate for your project type, your main fabric, and muslin.
Taking a plethora of your body measurements is the first thing you’ll do, according to the guidelines of whatever system or book you’re using. You’ll then fill those measurements in on a sheet which should correspond to how those measurements are labeled. Afterward, you’ll begin drafting points and lines on dotted pattern paper.
After you’ve finished your block and are satisfied with the fit, you’ll want to add seam allowance and ease for the finished garment you want to create and note whether your fabric is non-stretch woven or stretch, as it will determine how you adjust ease.
Design Details
If you’ve gone the route of drafting your own block, consider all of the design details- from closures to pockets to seam types and seam finishing.
Don’t go all out on your first project! Make a tunic, a top, something simple!
Before you cut
Have you added or accounted for seam allowance and ease? If you’ve created your own block, you must account for these yourself- some ease is included when drafting most measurements and it will be noted in the instructions...
Grainline: you want to be aware of your fabric’s grainline.
Closure: if you’re sewing a woven (non-stretch garment), you will most likely need a closure unless the neckline and waistline are large enough to allow for getting in and out of the garment.
Before You Sew
I recommend you write down the steps you need to take before constructing the garment.
Test a scrap piece of your final fabric and make sure your sewing machine and bobbin’s tension are set for it.
Decide what type of seams and seam finishing you want to use... You must finish the seam if you intend to machine wash it, and can choose whichever you prefer.
Here We Sew!
It’s time to sew! Don’t be nervous!
