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Thanksgiving is the great American gastronomic holiday. Halloween is for foolishness, costumes, and candy. Christmas is for worship, family, and unseemly lust for gaudily wrapped material goods (somewhat antithetical to the Christian origin of the holiday).
Thanksgiving is the quintessential harvest feast. Turkey and ham and cranberry sauce and corn on the cob and cornbread and pumpkin pie and whatever else you can conjure up from the cornucopia of agricultural abundance the good Lord bestows on American tables.
The wine: pinot noir. I know arguments can be made for zinfandel and Bordeaux blends (American Bordeaux blends), even some whites and rosés. All well and good and maybe part of the groaning Thanksgiving sideboard of excess of everything. But if you want one wine for this bacchanalian extravaganza, it is pinot noir.
Pinot is among the lightest of the red wines. It thus works well with a wide array of foods you conjure up for your Thanksgiving feast. It is especially suited for turkey, goes very well with ham. The stronger California versions of pinot can hang with slow-cooked brisket. It especially is nice for family members put off by tannic, assertive red wines. Thanksgiving is a meal of comity and convaiviality. Pinot noir encourages that.
Pinot noir is a famously fickle grape, also one of the oldest varieties used for winemaking. The Catholic church was critical to its development beginning in monastery vineyards in the 6th century, then specifically named in the early 1300s. It spread to Germany as spätburgunder and in Italy as pinot nero. France’s Burgundy region is the cathedral of pinot noir, but California’s Russian River Valley and Oregon’s Willamette Valley now produce some of the world’s best pinots.
Pinot noir is a challenging grape due to its thin skin—thus its reserved tannins—and susceptibility to various viticulture challenges. It is called the “heartbreak grape” for a reason, which means pinot noir can be expensive. It also is worth it for your biggest gastronomic celebration of the year.
Tasting notes
• Project M Wines Personify Oregon Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley AVA 2022: Delicate, silky on initial attack, rising to power, complexity later in the palate. $40 Link to my review
• Dobbes Family Estate Eola-Amity Hills Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2021: Excellent fruit effort. Nice tang, clean, precise, complexity, length. $45 Link to my review
• Soter Vineyards Estates Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2021: Juicy, concentrated flavors. Plush, complex, elegant, impressive structure, length. Warm vintage well played by Soter, producing a more assertive pinot noir that you anticipate from Willamette. $55-63 Link to my review
Last round
What did the farmer say when he accidentally squashed his pumpkin? Oh my gord! Wine time.
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