Wine descriptors Part Three 4-17-2024

Wine descriptors Part Three 4-17-2024

Author: Gus Clemens April 16, 2024 Duration: 5:09

This is the weekly column

In our investigation of wine descriptors, we continue our plunge into wine’s weird words.

• Petrol/diesel: Associated with riesling. Aroma is not the smell you get filling your farm truck, but does suggest diesel or gasoline. It is caused by good-thing antioxidant TDN (1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene if you are a chemist geek), which forms from beta carotene and lutein as riesling ages. It is a distinctive, distinguishing marker for those identifying riesling in blind tastings. It also blows away after exposure to air.

• Burnt rubber: Associated with syrah, also with South African wines. South Africans took umbrage when an English critic used the descriptor. “We prefer that people use the term acrid rather than burnt rubber,” averred a spokesperson for Wines of South Africa. Current descriptor preferred by wineries for this nose note: “sun-dried tomatoes.”

• Tar: Associated with nebbiolo (Barolo/Barbaresco) and syrah—means aromas and flavors reminiscent of tar. Who eats or smells tar to find out? Some claim it describes a mix of meat and black pepper. Remember, smell is at least 75% of taste, so the “taste” of tar really is a slight—and slight is key—aroma of tar.

• Pencil shavings: Associated with cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot: hints of cedar or eucalyptus wood. Cigar box also associated with this nose nuance. Think of sharpening the #2 in the third grade. It is a mineral smokiness similar to graphite. Engendered either from tannins in the wine or the wine’s exposure to oak during the winemaking process, to put a fine point on it.

Tasting notes

• Benziger Family Winery Chardonnay 2022: Sonoma chard—lively acidity frames citrus, apple, and stone fruit. $14-16 Link to my review

• Monteabellón Tempranillo 5 Meses en Barrica, Ribera del Duero 2020: Easy-going tempranillo effort with refreshing acidity. $14-16 Link to my review

• Domäne Wachau Riesling Federspiel Terrassen 2021: Excellent dry riesling from fabled Austrian wine producing area. Very focused with excellent acidity and complexity. $20-25 Link to my review

• La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2021: Fresh, clean with attractive layers of quality fruit. Lighter version of California pinot noir style. $27 Link to my review

• Masciarelli Marina Cvetić Montepulciano d’Abruzzo S. Martino Rosso Riserva DOC 2019: Good complexity. Nicely evolves in the glass presenting an engaging experience. $29-38 Link to my review

• Trefethen Family Vineyards Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley 2021: Assertive Napa cab that combines some earthiness with elegance. $50-70 Link to my review

Last round

My son told my husband he got a part in his school play and he would be playing a man who has been happily married for 25 years. My husband replied: “Maybe next time you’ll get a speaking part.” Wine time.Links to my reviews

Gus Clemens on Wine is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.

Email: wine@cwadv.com

Newsletter: gusclemens.substack.com

Website:  gusclemensonwine.com

Facebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/

Twitter (X): @gusclemens

Long form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal



This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

There’s a lot of noise in the world of wine, but Gus Clemens on Wine cuts through it with clarity and a good dose of humor. Drawing from his widely syndicated newspaper column and his daily online posts, Gus Clemens brings his accessible expertise directly to your ears. This isn’t a stuffy lecture series. Instead, each episode feels like a relaxed conversation with a knowledgeable friend who genuinely wants you to enjoy the journey as much as the glass in your hand. You’ll hear straightforward reviews, fascinating stories from wine history, and practical insights that make the entire subject feel approachable and fun. The podcast naturally extends Gus’s written work into a warm, audio format perfect for listening during a commute, while cooking, or simply relaxing. Whether you’re just starting to explore beyond the supermarket aisle or you’re a seasoned enthusiast looking for a fresh perspective, this series demystifies topics from grape varieties and regions to pairing ideas and the latest trends. It’s about the culture, the people, and the stories behind the bottle, all delivered with a consistent, engaging voice that turns every episode into a pleasant discovery. Tune in for a genuinely user-friendly guide to the wide, wonderful world of wine.
Author: Language: English Episodes: 100

Gus Clemens on Wine explores and explains the world of wine in simple, humorous, fun posts
Podcast Episodes
Lifestyle choices and wine 2-25-2026 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 10:44
Right now, many in the wine world are freaked about the decline in wine drinking. Advice: relax, take a deep, cleansing breath. A nice, chilled rosé also might help. Wine is a lifestyle choice. By their very nature, life…
Wine’s tough year 12-30-2025 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 7:36
Ah, it was a heady wine time while it lasted. Wine enjoyed more than 50 years of vineyard and winery growth, more than 50 years of improving quality, more than 50 years of consistent year-over-year market expansion. Thos…
Tannins explained 10-8-2025 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 12:14
Tannins are natural and essential to wine. They also are wine’s most misunderstood element. Even wine scientists admit they do not fully understand tannins. One expert called tannins a “chemical train wreck.” Let’s explo…
Controversial wine review terms 9-16-2025 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 9:56
Wine writers freely admit that trying to describe how a wine tastes is the classic “like dancing about architecture” folly. But amid the thousands of wine choices, people still want guidance. Even if the guidance has fla…
Wine writer times they are a-changin’ 9-2-2025 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 7:02
After 17 years of communicating to readers as a newspaper wine columnist with a side gig online, the ground shifted, the medium and the stylistic conventions of the message changed.As a newspaper writer, the style leaned…
Wine reviews humor 8-13-2025 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 5:37
This is the weekly columnI get it. Using words to describe what a wine tastes like is like dancing about architecture. But wine writers do it anyway, and wine readers read it anyway.Part of the reason: something is bette…
Perceived sweetness in wine 8-6-2025 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 10:15
This is the weekly columnWhat makes a wine sweet and what makes a wine taste sweet? As you might expect in the convoluted world of wine, the two are not the same. In the wine world, things are not always what they seem.W…
A widow solves a Champagne riddle 7-30-2025 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 8:02
This is the weekly columnRevolution and evolution in wine in the 17th and 18th centuries set up the sparkling wine world we enjoy today. Christopher Merret’s experiments in secondary fermentation. Dom Pérignon’s vineyard…
Sparkling evolution-revolution 7-23-2025 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 5:40
This is the weekly columnWine has been evolving for at least 8,000 years, and so it goes in the world of sparkling wine.First, the basics. Benedictine monk Dom Pérignon invented sparkling wine, exclaiming: “Come quickly,…
Days of thine and rosés 7-16-2025 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 6:57
This is the weekly columnSummmer-time, and sippin’ rosé is easy… fish are jumpin’… and the cotton is high.OK, bastardizing George Gershwin’s Porgy and Bess intro may be a déclassé way to introduce a high summer homage to…