Wine descriptors Part Three 4-17-2024

Wine descriptors Part Three 4-17-2024

Author: Gus Clemens April 16, 2024 Duration: 5:09

This is the weekly column

In our investigation of wine descriptors, we continue our plunge into wine’s weird words.

• Petrol/diesel: Associated with riesling. Aroma is not the smell you get filling your farm truck, but does suggest diesel or gasoline. It is caused by good-thing antioxidant TDN (1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene if you are a chemist geek), which forms from beta carotene and lutein as riesling ages. It is a distinctive, distinguishing marker for those identifying riesling in blind tastings. It also blows away after exposure to air.

• Burnt rubber: Associated with syrah, also with South African wines. South Africans took umbrage when an English critic used the descriptor. “We prefer that people use the term acrid rather than burnt rubber,” averred a spokesperson for Wines of South Africa. Current descriptor preferred by wineries for this nose note: “sun-dried tomatoes.”

• Tar: Associated with nebbiolo (Barolo/Barbaresco) and syrah—means aromas and flavors reminiscent of tar. Who eats or smells tar to find out? Some claim it describes a mix of meat and black pepper. Remember, smell is at least 75% of taste, so the “taste” of tar really is a slight—and slight is key—aroma of tar.

• Pencil shavings: Associated with cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot: hints of cedar or eucalyptus wood. Cigar box also associated with this nose nuance. Think of sharpening the #2 in the third grade. It is a mineral smokiness similar to graphite. Engendered either from tannins in the wine or the wine’s exposure to oak during the winemaking process, to put a fine point on it.

Tasting notes

• Benziger Family Winery Chardonnay 2022: Sonoma chard—lively acidity frames citrus, apple, and stone fruit. $14-16 Link to my review

• Monteabellón Tempranillo 5 Meses en Barrica, Ribera del Duero 2020: Easy-going tempranillo effort with refreshing acidity. $14-16 Link to my review

• Domäne Wachau Riesling Federspiel Terrassen 2021: Excellent dry riesling from fabled Austrian wine producing area. Very focused with excellent acidity and complexity. $20-25 Link to my review

• La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2021: Fresh, clean with attractive layers of quality fruit. Lighter version of California pinot noir style. $27 Link to my review

• Masciarelli Marina Cvetić Montepulciano d’Abruzzo S. Martino Rosso Riserva DOC 2019: Good complexity. Nicely evolves in the glass presenting an engaging experience. $29-38 Link to my review

• Trefethen Family Vineyards Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley 2021: Assertive Napa cab that combines some earthiness with elegance. $50-70 Link to my review

Last round

My son told my husband he got a part in his school play and he would be playing a man who has been happily married for 25 years. My husband replied: “Maybe next time you’ll get a speaking part.” Wine time.Links to my reviews

Gus Clemens on Wine is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.

Email: wine@cwadv.com

Newsletter: gusclemens.substack.com

Website:  gusclemensonwine.com

Facebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/

Twitter (X): @gusclemens

Long form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal



This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

There’s a lot of noise in the world of wine, but Gus Clemens on Wine cuts through it with clarity and a good dose of humor. Drawing from his widely syndicated newspaper column and his daily online posts, Gus Clemens brings his accessible expertise directly to your ears. This isn’t a stuffy lecture series. Instead, each episode feels like a relaxed conversation with a knowledgeable friend who genuinely wants you to enjoy the journey as much as the glass in your hand. You’ll hear straightforward reviews, fascinating stories from wine history, and practical insights that make the entire subject feel approachable and fun. The podcast naturally extends Gus’s written work into a warm, audio format perfect for listening during a commute, while cooking, or simply relaxing. Whether you’re just starting to explore beyond the supermarket aisle or you’re a seasoned enthusiast looking for a fresh perspective, this series demystifies topics from grape varieties and regions to pairing ideas and the latest trends. It’s about the culture, the people, and the stories behind the bottle, all delivered with a consistent, engaging voice that turns every episode into a pleasant discovery. Tune in for a genuinely user-friendly guide to the wide, wonderful world of wine.
Author: Language: English Episodes: 100

Gus Clemens on Wine explores and explains the world of wine in simple, humorous, fun posts
Podcast Episodes
Wine facts and trivia, Part Two 2-28-2024 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 4:54
This is the weekly columnMore interesting facts and trivia about wine:• World wine production averages around 6.5 billion gallons a year.• Portugal has the most wine consumption in the world at 13.7 gallons per person pe…
Wine facts and trivia, Part One 2-21-2023 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 4:56
This is the weekly columnSome interesting facts and trivia about wine:• The Bible mentions wine 247 times. Forty of those mentions are negative, usually warnings against abuse. There are 145 positive mentions, usually in…
Wine glut 2-14-2024 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 4:43
This is the weekly columnWine has enjoyed quite a run. Consumption up for decades. Quality up—the best in the 8,000 year history of wine. Availability up, thanks in no small part to elimination of antediluvian restrictio…
Valentine’s Day 2-7-2023 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 4:21
This is the weekly columnValentine’s Day, the inspired capitalist fabrication of greeting card makers, florists, and chocolatiers, happens next Wednesday. Here are some notions about wine to titillate your cherished some…
Scientific proof of terroir 1-31-2024 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 4:43
This is the weekly columnTerroir is that baffling French term you often encounter with wine. There is another French term that sums up the meaning of terroir—je ne sais quoi [something that cannot be fully described or e…
Old Vines 1-24-2024 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 4:13
This is the weekly columnYou likely have seen the description “old vine” on a wine label. What exactly does that mean and is it important?“Old vine” does not have a legal meaning, but generally in the wine world an “old…
Laura Catena interview Part Five 1-17-2024 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 3:51
This is the weekly columnLaura Catena interview Part Five 1-17-2024Dr. Laura Catena, managing director of Bodega Catena Zapata, is considered the face of Argentine wine and a major spokesperson for wine in general.After…
California’s Goldilocks vintage 1-10-2024 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 4:51
This is the weekly columnCalifornia’s Goldilocks vintage 1-10-2024It is a new year and time for some good news.Recent history has not been kind for wine. Demand, after decades of euphoric gains, has been flat. Mother Nat…
Meteorological seasons 1-3-2024 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 4:30
This is the weekly columnMeteorological seasons 1-3-2024It is early January. Barely into winter. Except it isn’t barely into winter if you reckon by the more rational system of “meteorological seasons.” By that measure,…
New Year's bubbly 12-27-2023 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 5:15
This is the weekly columnNew Year’s bubbly 12-27-2023While sparkling wine deserves to be enjoyed year-round, New Year’s Eve and special celebrations are when most people experience it. Suggestions on New Year strategies:…