S9 Ep18 BONHAMS: Marissa Speer, Head of Designer Handbags & Fashion in the U.S. - on auctioning Jackie Kennedy's 1968 wedding dress.

S9 Ep18 BONHAMS: Marissa Speer, Head of Designer Handbags & Fashion in the U.S. - on auctioning Jackie Kennedy's 1968 wedding dress.

Author: Emily Stochl May 26, 2025 Duration: 44:08

On today's show, we're chatting with Marissa, the Head of Designer Handbags & Fashion in the U.S. at Bonhams Auction House. If you've listened to the episode we did with Bonham's UK-based counterpart, Meg Randell, Bonhams is building on its success in offering handbags & fashion by introducing the category to the US market.

Marissa bring twenty-years experience to this position, previously she worked at Resurrection Vintage, where she learned to source, date, and place exquisite antique and couture pieces with the world's most renowned fashion houses, museums, stylists.

Then, she worked at the world's largest consignment company, The RealReal, where she specialized in authentication and valuation and had a 0% authenticity error rate.

What happens when a Dior newspaper dress (yes, THAT Sex and the City dress) goes from an $800 estimate to selling for $23,000? Or when a 90-year-old yacht mechanic decides it's time to auction Jackie Kennedy's wedding dress he's kept wrapped in tissue paper since the 1960s?

On this episode we talk about all this & more – the absolute treasures that fall under Marissa's specialty for auctions at Bonhams –  let's dive right in!

DISCUSSED IN THE EPISODE:

  • [2:39] A child of the 90s, Marissa grew up loving a Delia's catalog.
  • [10:20] How she was recruited to start the Fashion & Handbags department at Bonham's U.S. division.
  • [14:16] Why building relationships is so important in a client-driven business like vintage dealing or auctions.
  • [14:46] Selling Jackie Kennedy's 1968 Valentino wedding dress, which had been stored on a yacht.
  • [20:59] Inside the most impressive collection of never-worn Margiela Marissa has ever seen.
  • [23:53] The heritage brands and couture designs Marissa works on at Bonhams, and how to value them.
  • [27:02] - How a Sex and the City reference turned an $800 Dior dress into a $23,000 auction moment.
  • [28:50] Working on the first-ever Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy fashion auction.
  • [30:28] How an auction house assesses trends and demand to best time the market value.
  • [31:25] Why it's time to pull out your Y2K Louis Vuitton and your Dior saddlebags, plus other trending items.

EPISODE MENTIONS: 

LET'S CONNECT: 

SPECIAL THANKS: 

A special thanks goes out to my Patron Insiders – your support makes Pre-Loved Podcast possible!

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Every week, Emily Stochl invites you into a conversation that goes far beyond the clothing rack. Pre-Loved Podcast with Emily Stochl is built on the idea that every second-hand garment has a past, and that exploring those histories makes our present style more meaningful. Rather than just offering shopping tips, each episode feels like sitting down with a fascinating friend who shares your passion for vintage, digging into the many layers of what it means to wear pre-owned fashion. You’ll hear from a diverse range of guests-from collectors and stylists to entrepreneurs and historians-as they explore not only personal style but also the practicalities of running a resale business, the complexities of the global second-hand market, and the environmental ethos behind choosing used over new. The heart of this podcast lives in those incredible stories: the serendipitous flea market find, the garment that carries a decade of memories, or the simple, powerful act of giving a piece a new life. Emily guides these discussions with genuine curiosity, making each topic accessible whether you're a seasoned thrifter or just curious about sustainable fashion. It’s a thoughtful, engaging look at how what we wear connects to culture, art, beauty, and the kind of mindful consumption that can reshape an industry. Tune in for a fresh perspective that celebrates the character, sustainability, and deep personal connection found in pre-loved fashion.
Author: Language: English Episodes: 50

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