How Basketball Sneakers Got Their Groove Back

How Basketball Sneakers Got Their Groove Back

Author: The Business of Fashion August 6, 2025 Duration: 24:42

Performance basketball shoes have long been embedded in fashion culture, from the iconic Air Jordans of the 1990s to the stylised sneakers worn in NBA tunnel walks. But over the last decade, interest in basketball shoes waned as sneakerheads turned to minimalist silhouettes, running shoes and fashion collabs. 


Now, a new wave of signature athletes, innovative design from emerging and legacy brands and growing energy around the WNBA are bringing basketball sneakers back into the fashion spotlight.


In this episode of The Debrief, BoF correspondents Lei Takanashi and Mike Sykes join hosts Sheena Butler-Young and Brian Baskin to unpack what's changed, what's still missing and what the future might hold.


Key Insights: 


  • Basketball sneakers lost momentum with consumers when design became too functional and aesthetics too uniform. "All the styles just seemed kind of homogenous... There wasn't much difference there," said Sykes. "If you're not going to give us anything that looks different or anything that's unique, then people are going to go back and look into the past." This lack of innovation pushed sneakerheads toward nostalgic retro styles rather than new performance models.


  • New stars like Anthony Edwards and Shai Gilgeous-Alexander are reigniting interest in signature sneakers, not just through performance but personal style and personality. "He's got the bravado. He's like everything that you want from a signature athlete," said Mike of Edwards. "A lot of these new players... they have this grip on the culture," added Lei, referring to how their on-screen charisma and tunnel fits are helping bring basketball sneakers back to relevance.


  • The women’s game has long been rich in style and creativity — a fact the market is only now starting to catch up to. "Just seeing the creativity and the colour that has always been around the women's game when it comes to the sneakers that they've worn," said Mike. "It just makes it all the more disappointing... if we saw what we see today maybe five or 10 years ago, then the market right now would be completely different."


  • In the past decade, attention shifted away from professional athletes and toward celebrity collaborators like Kanye West and Travis Scott. That dynamic is beginning to change. "From a brand perspective, the athletes just weren't the interesting players in the field," said Mike. "And so now I think the brands are circling back around and recentering athletes in a way that I think we haven't quite seen in a long time."



Additional Resources:



Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.


Every week, The Debrief takes the most talked-about articles from BoF Professional and turns them into a deeper conversation. This isn't just about runway shows and red carpets; it's about the money, strategy, and often surprising forces driving the decisions we see. Hosted by seasoned BoF correspondents Sheena Butler-Young and Brian Baskin, the discussions pull back the curtain on a $2.5 trillion global industry, moving from the boardrooms of mega labels to the creative hustle of indie upstarts. You'll hear analysis of the pivotal deals, the disruptive technologies, and the powerful personalities that are constantly redefining what fashion means. The result is a clear-eyed look at the complex ecosystem where art, beauty, and commerce intersect. Tune in to this weekly podcast from The Business of Fashion for a nuanced perspective that goes far beyond the headlines, offering context and clarity on how the business actually works.
Author: Language: English Episodes: 100

The Debrief
Podcast Episodes
How Oil Shock Fears Are Rippling Through Fashion [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 25:02
As conflict between the US, Israel and Iran escalates, the threat to shipping through the Strait of Hormuz has pushed energy prices sharply higher. That matters to fashion far beyond the pump: oil and natural gas helps p…
How Fashion Picks Its Hip Hop Style Icons [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 22:06
Hip-hop has served as a primary pipeline for fashion’s entry into pop culture for decades, transitioning from organic street-level references to high-stakes global partnerships. Brands have historically leaned on a selec…
Tariffs Are Down, But Uncertainty Is Back [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 18:43
Nearly a year after President Donald Trump’s “Liberation Day” tariffs sent shockwaves through the fashion industry, the Supreme Court ruled he did not have authority to impose the sweeping levies. For an industry that im…
How Dior and Chanel Are Winning Back Aspirational Shoppers [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 19:44
After raising prices aggressively during the post-pandemic boom, luxury brands are now confronting slower growth and a shrinking aspirational customer base. According to Bernstein, average luxury price hikes reached 36 p…
How Fashion Brands Are Winning the Winter Olympics [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 23:50
While the Olympics remain one of the world’s biggest sporting stages, they are also one of the most tightly controlled marketing environments. Rules limit how sponsors can interact with athletes and advertise during the…
The New Rules for Influencer Marketing [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 24:49
Influencer marketing in 2026 is a different beast. Once dominated by follower counts and splashy sponsored posts, the sector is now shaped by richer performance data, new monetisation models and growing consumer sceptici…
Making Sense of Fashion’s Brutal Job Market [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 22:44
Across fashion, companies that once embraced remote or hybrid work are increasingly pushing employees back into the office, with some moving towards four or even five days a week. At the same time, competition for jobs,…
Have Sneakers Lost Their Cool? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 24:09
Sneakers have driven growth for the sportswear industry for decades, in recent years accelerated by the pandemic and work-from-home culture. However, a recent Bank of America report sparked debate by suggesting the sneak…
Saks’ Bankruptcy and the Future of Luxury Retail [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 22:21
Saks’ bankruptcy was widely expected, yet still felt like a shock to the fashion system. The department store giant’s Chapter 11 filing outlines $1.75 billion in restructuring finance and $3.4 billion owed to as many as…
Inside Beauty’s 2026 M&A Pipeline [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 20:21
2026 opens with real movement in beauty deals. As first reported by The Business of Beauty, Estée Lauder is exploring a packaged sale of Too Faced, Smashbox and Dr. Jart to free up cash and refocus the portfolio. Who’s n…