How Big Brands Choose their Creative Directors

How Big Brands Choose their Creative Directors

Author: The Business of Fashion September 14, 2022 Duration: 22:55

Louis Vuitton is expected to name its Virgil Abloh successor within weeks. BoF’s Imran Amed joins Lauren Sherman to discuss what luxury labels think about when recruiting top designers.


Background:


Louis Vuitton has spent almost a year searching for a Virgil Abloh successor after the designer died in November 2021. According to sources, Martine Rose, Grace Wales Bonner and Telfar Clemens are among the names that were considered by owner LVMH, and the decision is expected to be announced within weeks. But how do brands like Louis Vuitton even go about finding a designer?

“Without the creative energy, without that kind of excitement, there’s nothing to sell,” said Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief.


Key Insights:


  • While all brands have their own personality and the situations that necessitate finding a new creative director differ, the things most brands look for in a leader are similar.
  • Executives have to consider whether they’re looking for revolution, like when Gucci tapped Alessandro Michele for creative energy and new ideas, or evolution, like when Saint Laurent tapped Anthony Vaccarello to keep its aesthetic formula after Hedi Slimane departed.
  • A strong vision is the most important thing. But creative directors also need to have commercial sensibility and the ability to work in a corporate environment.
  • One of Abloh’s achievements was that he managed to build a community at Louis Vuitton, and engage consumers who had been traditionally excluded by the luxury industry.


Additional Resources:


Join BoF Professional today with our exclusive podcast listener discount of 25% off an annual membership, follow the link here and enter the coupon code ‘debrief’ at checkout. 

 

Want more from The Business of Fashion? Subscribe to our daily newsletter here.

 

Follow The Debrief wherever you listen to podcasts.



Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.


Every week, The Debrief takes the most talked-about articles from BoF Professional and turns them into a deeper conversation. This isn't just about runway shows and red carpets; it's about the money, strategy, and often surprising forces driving the decisions we see. Hosted by seasoned BoF correspondents Sheena Butler-Young and Brian Baskin, the discussions pull back the curtain on a $2.5 trillion global industry, moving from the boardrooms of mega labels to the creative hustle of indie upstarts. You'll hear analysis of the pivotal deals, the disruptive technologies, and the powerful personalities that are constantly redefining what fashion means. The result is a clear-eyed look at the complex ecosystem where art, beauty, and commerce intersect. Tune in to this weekly podcast from The Business of Fashion for a nuanced perspective that goes far beyond the headlines, offering context and clarity on how the business actually works.
Author: Language: English Episodes: 100

The Debrief
Podcast Episodes
Celebrating Black Style Inside the 2025 Met Gala [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 30:07
The Costume Institute's 2025 exhibition, "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style," celebrated its opening at the annual Met Gala, marking the first menswear-focused exhibit in two decades and the first ever centred exclusively…
Are Viral Microtrends Losing Their Cool? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 23:21
Viral microtrends, the fleeting aesthetics popularised on platforms like TikTok, have defined recent fashion moments for young consumers. From the playful "Cottagecore" to the fleeting "Mob Wife", these trends have rapid…
The Power of a Luxury Handbag [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 27:25
From the legendary Hermès Birkin to recent sensations like Alaïa’s Teckel, luxury handbags have long held a distinctive power within the fashion world. Blending brand heritage, practicality, and emotional resonance, hand…
Can Tariffs Really Revive 'Made in USA' Fashion? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 26:59
In early April, President Donald Trump announced an unprecedented wave of tariffs, imposing duties as high as 145 percent on imports from China. Among the rationales offered were the prospect of a US manufacturing renais…
Trump’s Tariffs Change Everything [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 24:35
President Donald Trump announced an unprecedented wave of tariffs on April 2, imposing duties as high as 54 percent on fashion imports from key manufacturing countries, including China and Vietnam, and 20 percent on good…
H&M's AI Models and the Future of Fashion Marketing [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 18:52
Fast-fashion giant H&M recently announced its plans to deploy AI-generated "digital twins" of real-life models in marketing campaigns. While H&M argues it's proactively managing inevitable industry changes, including by…
What Happened to Pat McGrath Labs? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 29:21
Pat McGrath is widely regarded as one of the most influential makeup artists of all time. Known simply as “Mother” to some in the industry, she’s been behind some of the most memorable runway beauty moments for decades.…
Is Forever 21 Shein's Biggest Victim Yet? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 21:36
Once a dominant player in fast fashion, Forever 21 recently filed for bankruptcy for the second time in six years, marking the likely end of its run as a physical retailer. The chain, known for introducing ultra-affordab…
Can You Sell Sexual Wellness Without Sex? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 24:54
In the 2010s and early 2020s, a new generation of sexual wellness companies selling sex toys, massage oils and other bedroom aides broke taboos by championing pleasure and redefining sex as wellness. Startups such as Han…
Can Farfetch Be Fixed? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 27:33
Once hailed as a pioneering platform for online luxury, Farfetch is now undergoing a dramatic operational overhaul. The South Korean e-commerce giant Coupang acquired the luxury marketplace in 2023, rescuing it from near…