How Nike Ran Off Course

How Nike Ran Off Course

Author: The Business of Fashion September 4, 2024 Duration: 30:59

Nike’s streak as the undisputed leader in the activewear category spans generations, but the brand is facing its most significant hurdles in decades. However, recent shifts in leadership, oversupply issues and a botched direct-to-consumer strategy have chipped away at its once-untouchable brand image. As challengers like Hoka and On gain ground, and archrival Adidas surges, Nike faces mounting pressure to innovate and reconnect with consumers. 


“Nike remains a behemoth, … but all is not well,” says Miller. “The brand is on course for its worst financial performance in over a quarter of a century, and unfortunately for Nike, trouble is happening everywhere, all over the brand.”


This week on The Debrief, BoF executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young sit down with sports correspondent Daniel-Yaw Miller to explore how Nike fell off track and the strategic moves it’s making to reclaim its market dominance.



Key insights


  • Nike’s reliance on retro sneaker lines like Air Force 1 and Dunks is driving consumer fatigue, as these once-coveted styles now languish on shelves. “At one point not so long ago, they were like gold dust,” says Miller. “But now they’re sitting on shelves for months and sometimes being discounted.” This overabundance is diluting the brand’s appeal and paving the way for smaller, more agile competitors to capture the spotlight.


  • Despite substantial investment in R&D, Nike’s innovation efforts have faltered, allowing rivals to define the next wave of sneaker trends, like performance sport styles and technology-driven designs. “Nike didn’t really have any new products to turn to and point consumers towards,” says Miller. Brands like On and Hoka have gained traction with innovations such as On’s CloudTec Technology and Hoka’s MetaRocker running silhouette.


  • The “Winning Isn’t For Everyone” campaign marks a return to Nike’s swaggering marketing playbook of the 90s and 2000s, and a potential early sign of the brand’s resurgence. “It wasn’t just one simple video; it was meant to communicate a new brand ethos,” Miller explains. “This Nike campaign needed to be divisive. Consumers are looking for brands that have a point of view, and that’s what Nike is trying to bring back.”


Additional resources



Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.


Every week, The Debrief takes the most talked-about articles from BoF Professional and turns them into a deeper conversation. This isn't just about runway shows and red carpets; it's about the money, strategy, and often surprising forces driving the decisions we see. Hosted by seasoned BoF correspondents Sheena Butler-Young and Brian Baskin, the discussions pull back the curtain on a $2.5 trillion global industry, moving from the boardrooms of mega labels to the creative hustle of indie upstarts. You'll hear analysis of the pivotal deals, the disruptive technologies, and the powerful personalities that are constantly redefining what fashion means. The result is a clear-eyed look at the complex ecosystem where art, beauty, and commerce intersect. Tune in to this weekly podcast from The Business of Fashion for a nuanced perspective that goes far beyond the headlines, offering context and clarity on how the business actually works.
Author: Language: English Episodes: 100

The Debrief
Podcast Episodes
Why Can’t Fashion Fix Its Labour Exploitation Problem? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 25:22
The revelation this year of child labour in India’s cotton fields and modern-day slavery in Taiwanese garment factories is the latest scandal concerning worker treatment in fashion’s supply chain. New abuses keep emergin…
Can Kering Fix Gucci? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 30:57
Gucci has long been the shining star of Kering’s luxury portfolio, but the brand's recent struggles have exposed weaknesses in the conglomerate’s position. Gucci’s sales plummeted 24 percent in the fourth quarter of 2024…
Can Estée Lauder Win Over the Modern Beauty Consumer? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 25:39
Estée Lauder was long celebrated as a pioneer in prestige beauty, building a global empire on the strength of family legacy, innovative product lines, smart acquisitions and a high-touch in-store experience. However in r…
Fashion’s M&A Market is Heating Up [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 26:13
After a prolonged slowdown, fashion’s M&A market is springing back to life. A combination of falling interest rates, shifting investor sentiment and optimism around economic policy has fuelled a wave of early 2025 deals.…
How to Future-Proof Your Fashion Career in 2025 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 33:07
The fashion workplace is evolving, shaped by a wave of technological advancements, leadership changes, and cultural dynamics. For many employees, adapting to these changes has become a challenge, while employers must nav…
The Evolving Art of Brand Collaborations [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 24:03
Brand collaborations were once rare, highly anticipated events that generated significant buzz. But as they have become more frequent, the challenge lies in creating partnerships that genuinely resonate with consumers an…
How to Choose a PR Agency [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 23:21
Public relations in fashion has transformed drastically from securing magazine features to managing 360-degree brand storytelling. PR agencies now navigate everything from influencer partnerships to event management, soc…
BoF’s Top Stories of 2024 [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 27:22
Background:As the year comes to a close, BoF’s executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young look back on some of their favourite articles from 2024. The stories include topics that dominated…
The Future of DEI and ESG in a Hostile Political Environment [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 23:49
In the late 2010s, and particularly after George Floyd’s murder in 2020, the fashion industry appeared to embrace a progressive awakening on issues like racial justice and climate change. Diversity, equity, and inclusion…
The Future of Resale [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 28:49
Resale is no longer confined to thrift stores or niche platforms; it has grown into a roughly $50 billion industry in the U.S. alone, by some measures. Platforms like Poshmark, The RealReal and Vestiaire Collective have…