How Nike Ran Off Course

How Nike Ran Off Course

Author: The Business of Fashion September 4, 2024 Duration: 30:59

Nike’s streak as the undisputed leader in the activewear category spans generations, but the brand is facing its most significant hurdles in decades. However, recent shifts in leadership, oversupply issues and a botched direct-to-consumer strategy have chipped away at its once-untouchable brand image. As challengers like Hoka and On gain ground, and archrival Adidas surges, Nike faces mounting pressure to innovate and reconnect with consumers. 


“Nike remains a behemoth, … but all is not well,” says Miller. “The brand is on course for its worst financial performance in over a quarter of a century, and unfortunately for Nike, trouble is happening everywhere, all over the brand.”


This week on The Debrief, BoF executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young sit down with sports correspondent Daniel-Yaw Miller to explore how Nike fell off track and the strategic moves it’s making to reclaim its market dominance.



Key insights


  • Nike’s reliance on retro sneaker lines like Air Force 1 and Dunks is driving consumer fatigue, as these once-coveted styles now languish on shelves. “At one point not so long ago, they were like gold dust,” says Miller. “But now they’re sitting on shelves for months and sometimes being discounted.” This overabundance is diluting the brand’s appeal and paving the way for smaller, more agile competitors to capture the spotlight.


  • Despite substantial investment in R&D, Nike’s innovation efforts have faltered, allowing rivals to define the next wave of sneaker trends, like performance sport styles and technology-driven designs. “Nike didn’t really have any new products to turn to and point consumers towards,” says Miller. Brands like On and Hoka have gained traction with innovations such as On’s CloudTec Technology and Hoka’s MetaRocker running silhouette.


  • The “Winning Isn’t For Everyone” campaign marks a return to Nike’s swaggering marketing playbook of the 90s and 2000s, and a potential early sign of the brand’s resurgence. “It wasn’t just one simple video; it was meant to communicate a new brand ethos,” Miller explains. “This Nike campaign needed to be divisive. Consumers are looking for brands that have a point of view, and that’s what Nike is trying to bring back.”


Additional resources



Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.


Every week, The Debrief takes the most talked-about articles from BoF Professional and turns them into a deeper conversation. This isn't just about runway shows and red carpets; it's about the money, strategy, and often surprising forces driving the decisions we see. Hosted by seasoned BoF correspondents Sheena Butler-Young and Brian Baskin, the discussions pull back the curtain on a $2.5 trillion global industry, moving from the boardrooms of mega labels to the creative hustle of indie upstarts. You'll hear analysis of the pivotal deals, the disruptive technologies, and the powerful personalities that are constantly redefining what fashion means. The result is a clear-eyed look at the complex ecosystem where art, beauty, and commerce intersect. Tune in to this weekly podcast from The Business of Fashion for a nuanced perspective that goes far beyond the headlines, offering context and clarity on how the business actually works.
Author: Language: English Episodes: 100

The Debrief
Podcast Episodes
Celebrating Black Style Inside the 2025 Met Gala [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 30:07
The Costume Institute's 2025 exhibition, "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style," celebrated its opening at the annual Met Gala, marking the first menswear-focused exhibit in two decades and the first ever centred exclusively…
Are Viral Microtrends Losing Their Cool? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 23:21
Viral microtrends, the fleeting aesthetics popularised on platforms like TikTok, have defined recent fashion moments for young consumers. From the playful "Cottagecore" to the fleeting "Mob Wife", these trends have rapid…
The Power of a Luxury Handbag [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 27:25
From the legendary Hermès Birkin to recent sensations like Alaïa’s Teckel, luxury handbags have long held a distinctive power within the fashion world. Blending brand heritage, practicality, and emotional resonance, hand…
Can Tariffs Really Revive 'Made in USA' Fashion? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 26:59
In early April, President Donald Trump announced an unprecedented wave of tariffs, imposing duties as high as 145 percent on imports from China. Among the rationales offered were the prospect of a US manufacturing renais…
Trump’s Tariffs Change Everything [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 24:35
President Donald Trump announced an unprecedented wave of tariffs on April 2, imposing duties as high as 54 percent on fashion imports from key manufacturing countries, including China and Vietnam, and 20 percent on good…
H&M's AI Models and the Future of Fashion Marketing [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 18:52
Fast-fashion giant H&M recently announced its plans to deploy AI-generated "digital twins" of real-life models in marketing campaigns. While H&M argues it's proactively managing inevitable industry changes, including by…
What Happened to Pat McGrath Labs? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 29:21
Pat McGrath is widely regarded as one of the most influential makeup artists of all time. Known simply as “Mother” to some in the industry, she’s been behind some of the most memorable runway beauty moments for decades.…
Is Forever 21 Shein's Biggest Victim Yet? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 21:36
Once a dominant player in fast fashion, Forever 21 recently filed for bankruptcy for the second time in six years, marking the likely end of its run as a physical retailer. The chain, known for introducing ultra-affordab…
Can You Sell Sexual Wellness Without Sex? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 24:54
In the 2010s and early 2020s, a new generation of sexual wellness companies selling sex toys, massage oils and other bedroom aides broke taboos by championing pleasure and redefining sex as wellness. Startups such as Han…
Can Farfetch Be Fixed? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 27:33
Once hailed as a pioneering platform for online luxury, Farfetch is now undergoing a dramatic operational overhaul. The South Korean e-commerce giant Coupang acquired the luxury marketplace in 2023, rescuing it from near…