What Happens When Women Lead

What Happens When Women Lead

Author: The Business of Fashion December 12, 2025 Duration: 16:49

Collectively, Clare Waight Keller and Maria Cornejo have over two decades of experience in the fashion industry. Waight Keller’s impressive career includes roles at Givenchy, Chloé and Gucci — and today, she serves as creative director at Uniqlo. Cornejo’s New York–based label, founded nearly three decades ago, counts Michelle Obama and Christy Turlington Burns among its most devoted fans.


From deeply entrenched gender biases to the fear of returning to work after giving birth, women face a number of systemic barriers to reaching senior leadership positions in the fashion industry, insiders say. Today, some women designers have found success launching their own labels — and when they do land leadership roles at major houses, often make it a priority to create opportunities for other women, which remain few and far between.


At the VOICES 10th anniversary, Waight Keller and Cornejo speak with senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young about what it’s like to work in an industry where women are the muses and chief customers, but the top commercial and creative roles are dominated by men.


 


Key Insights: 


  • Clare Waight Keller says that the inequalities between men and women in fashion are driven in part by the narrative that “men are often seen as the implementers of big change, and women of stability, and so with stability we’re often also cornered into a commercial sense of aesthetic.” Both Waight Keller and Cornejo push back against this notion, saying that women aren’t less creative but simply more considerate of how real women want to dress.


  • Maria Cornejo feels that “there’s a big disconnect in fashion… from what's instagrammable and what is actual reality … all the women I know who have independent businesses… we’re making clothes that women wear.” 


  • Both designers say they have encountered inequities as women in fashion, prompting Waight Keller to intentionally assemble an all-women team at Uniqlo. “Women add so much richness into the conversation of clothing, we offer a completely different perspective which is equally powerful and equally relevant,” she says.


Additional Resources:



Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.


Every week, The Debrief takes the most talked-about articles from BoF Professional and turns them into a deeper conversation. This isn't just about runway shows and red carpets; it's about the money, strategy, and often surprising forces driving the decisions we see. Hosted by seasoned BoF correspondents Sheena Butler-Young and Brian Baskin, the discussions pull back the curtain on a $2.5 trillion global industry, moving from the boardrooms of mega labels to the creative hustle of indie upstarts. You'll hear analysis of the pivotal deals, the disruptive technologies, and the powerful personalities that are constantly redefining what fashion means. The result is a clear-eyed look at the complex ecosystem where art, beauty, and commerce intersect. Tune in to this weekly podcast from The Business of Fashion for a nuanced perspective that goes far beyond the headlines, offering context and clarity on how the business actually works.
Author: Language: English Episodes: 100

The Debrief
Podcast Episodes
Are Viral Microtrends Losing Their Cool? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 23:21
Viral microtrends, the fleeting aesthetics popularised on platforms like TikTok, have defined recent fashion moments for young consumers. From the playful "Cottagecore" to the fleeting "Mob Wife", these trends have rapid…
The Power of a Luxury Handbag [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 27:25
From the legendary Hermès Birkin to recent sensations like Alaïa’s Teckel, luxury handbags have long held a distinctive power within the fashion world. Blending brand heritage, practicality, and emotional resonance, hand…
Can Tariffs Really Revive 'Made in USA' Fashion? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 26:59
In early April, President Donald Trump announced an unprecedented wave of tariffs, imposing duties as high as 145 percent on imports from China. Among the rationales offered were the prospect of a US manufacturing renais…
Trump’s Tariffs Change Everything [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 24:35
President Donald Trump announced an unprecedented wave of tariffs on April 2, imposing duties as high as 54 percent on fashion imports from key manufacturing countries, including China and Vietnam, and 20 percent on good…
H&M's AI Models and the Future of Fashion Marketing [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 18:52
Fast-fashion giant H&M recently announced its plans to deploy AI-generated "digital twins" of real-life models in marketing campaigns. While H&M argues it's proactively managing inevitable industry changes, including by…
What Happened to Pat McGrath Labs? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 29:21
Pat McGrath is widely regarded as one of the most influential makeup artists of all time. Known simply as “Mother” to some in the industry, she’s been behind some of the most memorable runway beauty moments for decades.…
Is Forever 21 Shein's Biggest Victim Yet? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 21:36
Once a dominant player in fast fashion, Forever 21 recently filed for bankruptcy for the second time in six years, marking the likely end of its run as a physical retailer. The chain, known for introducing ultra-affordab…
Can You Sell Sexual Wellness Without Sex? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 24:54
In the 2010s and early 2020s, a new generation of sexual wellness companies selling sex toys, massage oils and other bedroom aides broke taboos by championing pleasure and redefining sex as wellness. Startups such as Han…
Can Farfetch Be Fixed? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 27:33
Once hailed as a pioneering platform for online luxury, Farfetch is now undergoing a dramatic operational overhaul. The South Korean e-commerce giant Coupang acquired the luxury marketplace in 2023, rescuing it from near…
Why Can’t Fashion Fix Its Labour Exploitation Problem? [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 25:22
The revelation this year of child labour in India’s cotton fields and modern-day slavery in Taiwanese garment factories is the latest scandal concerning worker treatment in fashion’s supply chain. New abuses keep emergin…