Why Fashion Needs a Revolution—A 1Granary Perspective

Why Fashion Needs a Revolution—A 1Granary Perspective

Author: What's Contemporary March 10, 2025 Duration: 35:12
Fashion thrives on newness but resists change, celebrates young designers yet makes survival nearly impossible. Olya Kuryshchuk, founder of 1Granary, knows this contradiction well. What began as a student-run blog at Central Saint Martins has become one of the industry’s most unfiltered voices, exposing the gaps between talent, opportunity, and success. In this episode, Kuryshchuk unpacks why magazine editors are shifting to brand consulting, how ageism shapes studio culture, and why true innovation isn’t about aesthetics but structure, sustainability, and survival. With characteristic candor, she lays bare fashion’s broken pipeline, the illusion of overnight success, and what it actually takes to build a lasting career today. "What’s contemporary now? Long-term thinking. Creating with intention. The industry is obsessed with speed, but the future belongs to those who build for longevity." - Olya Kuryshchuk Episode Highlights: The Birth of 1Granary – What started as a student project at Central Saint Martins became a global fashion education platform. The Reality of Fashion Education – A degree from a top school doesn’t guarantee success—80% of graduates don’t find jobs in the industry. Acting as a Designer Union – 1Granary advocates for young designers, exposing industry flaws and providing career guidance. The Power of Community – Success in fashion isn’t just about talent; strategic relationships and collaborations shape careers. Why Editors Are Moving to Brand Consulting – Traditional media salaries are low, while brands offer better pay and creative freedom. Ageism in Fashion – Studios are filled with designers under 30, and career paths for women over 40 are nearly nonexistent. The Industry’s Broken Pipeline – Young designers either join big brands or struggle to launch their own—a middle path is missing. The Harsh Truth About Fashion’s Business Model – Many emerging designers can’t sustain their brands, despite industry hype. Fashion’s Double Standard on Sustainability – Big brands have the power to create real change, but it’s indie designers who often lead the charge. What’s Contemporary Now? – Long-term thinking—in an industry obsessed with speed, real impact comes from sustainability and intention. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The cultural landscape shifts constantly, and What's Contemporary Now? is a guide to its ever-changing terrain. Host Christopher Michael sits down with creators, critics, and innovators who are actively shaping the arts, from visual design and architecture to music and media. These conversations move beyond simple interviews, delving into the underlying philosophies and shared currents that connect seemingly disparate fields. Each episode unpacks a specific idea or movement through the lens of a guest's expertise, offering listeners a deeper understanding of the forces defining our current moment. Produced by Sasha Grinblat, the sound of the podcast is as considered as its content, creating an immersive space for genuine dialogue. You'll hear architects discuss the politics of space, musicians analyze the aesthetics of sound, and writers trace the lineage of new literary forms. It’s for anyone who feels that simply consuming culture isn't enough-who wants to understand the "why" behind the "what." By focusing on these broad, compelling perspectives, the series reveals the common threads woven through contemporary creative life, providing context and clarity in a fragmented world. Tune in to find your own place in the conversation.
Author: Language: English Episodes: 100

What's Contemporary Now?
Podcast Episodes
The Fifth Fashion Week, How Copenhagen Rewrote the Rules [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 40:12
Copenhagen Fashion Week marks its 20th anniversary at a moment when the fashion system is being asked to account for itself. In conversation with CEO Cecilie Thorsmark and COO Isabella Rose Davey, this episode examines h…
On the Road in Copenhagen [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 0:41
With a quick trip to Copenhagen for the city's 20th anniversary fashion week, we will be attending the shows, interviewing the organizers, and participating on a panel with Vogue business to explore the idea of what a ma…
Yoon Ahn on AMBUSH, Subculture, and One Foot In, One Foot Out [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 50:01
The episode follows AMBUSH’s evolution from jewelry made for friends to a brand that Yoon describes as a platform, shaped by experimentation rather than a rigid business plan. She speaks candidly about learning in real t…
Asad Syrkett on Interiors, Identity, and the Human Touch [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 47:58
Asad Syrkett joins What’s Contemporary Now? for a wide-ranging conversation about design as a cultural language and the quiet ways environments shape identity, memory, and access. From a childhood spent moving through Ne…
Happy Holidays! [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 1:01
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Angelo Flaccavento on Taste, Doubt, and the Beauty of Uncertainty [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 49:05
Angelo Flaccavento has long been one of fashion’s most distinctive critical voices — sharp yet empathetic, rigorous yet imaginative, always willing to question his own certainties. In this conversation, he traces his pat…
Camille Miceli on Pucci, Play, and Joie de Vivre [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 42:58
Camille Miceli brings a vivid, almost incandescent joie de vivre to Pucci, treating color, movement, and intuition as both vocabulary and philosophy. Her worldview is shaped by an upbringing steeped in art and fashion, a…
Matthew Whitehouse and The Face of Today [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 35:35
In this episode, Matthew Whitehouse reflects on the winding path from a rainy Lancashire childhood and a brief burst of band-life glamour to leading The Face, a title forever suspended between myth and reinvention. He sp…
Recho Omondi’s Candor, Curiosity, and The Cutting Room Floor [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 51:45
Recho Omondi, host of The Cutting Room Floor, handles candor with the ease of someone who has little interest in performance and every interest in clarity. Over seven years, her once-modest podcast has steadily entered t…