Why Fashion Needs a Revolution—A 1Granary Perspective

Why Fashion Needs a Revolution—A 1Granary Perspective

Author: What's Contemporary March 10, 2025 Duration: 35:12
Fashion thrives on newness but resists change, celebrates young designers yet makes survival nearly impossible. Olya Kuryshchuk, founder of 1Granary, knows this contradiction well. What began as a student-run blog at Central Saint Martins has become one of the industry’s most unfiltered voices, exposing the gaps between talent, opportunity, and success. In this episode, Kuryshchuk unpacks why magazine editors are shifting to brand consulting, how ageism shapes studio culture, and why true innovation isn’t about aesthetics but structure, sustainability, and survival. With characteristic candor, she lays bare fashion’s broken pipeline, the illusion of overnight success, and what it actually takes to build a lasting career today. "What’s contemporary now? Long-term thinking. Creating with intention. The industry is obsessed with speed, but the future belongs to those who build for longevity." - Olya Kuryshchuk Episode Highlights: The Birth of 1Granary – What started as a student project at Central Saint Martins became a global fashion education platform. The Reality of Fashion Education – A degree from a top school doesn’t guarantee success—80% of graduates don’t find jobs in the industry. Acting as a Designer Union – 1Granary advocates for young designers, exposing industry flaws and providing career guidance. The Power of Community – Success in fashion isn’t just about talent; strategic relationships and collaborations shape careers. Why Editors Are Moving to Brand Consulting – Traditional media salaries are low, while brands offer better pay and creative freedom. Ageism in Fashion – Studios are filled with designers under 30, and career paths for women over 40 are nearly nonexistent. The Industry’s Broken Pipeline – Young designers either join big brands or struggle to launch their own—a middle path is missing. The Harsh Truth About Fashion’s Business Model – Many emerging designers can’t sustain their brands, despite industry hype. Fashion’s Double Standard on Sustainability – Big brands have the power to create real change, but it’s indie designers who often lead the charge. What’s Contemporary Now? – Long-term thinking—in an industry obsessed with speed, real impact comes from sustainability and intention. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The cultural landscape shifts constantly, and What's Contemporary Now? is a guide to its ever-changing terrain. Host Christopher Michael sits down with creators, critics, and innovators who are actively shaping the arts, from visual design and architecture to music and media. These conversations move beyond simple interviews, delving into the underlying philosophies and shared currents that connect seemingly disparate fields. Each episode unpacks a specific idea or movement through the lens of a guest's expertise, offering listeners a deeper understanding of the forces defining our current moment. Produced by Sasha Grinblat, the sound of the podcast is as considered as its content, creating an immersive space for genuine dialogue. You'll hear architects discuss the politics of space, musicians analyze the aesthetics of sound, and writers trace the lineage of new literary forms. It’s for anyone who feels that simply consuming culture isn't enough-who wants to understand the "why" behind the "what." By focusing on these broad, compelling perspectives, the series reveals the common threads woven through contemporary creative life, providing context and clarity in a fragmented world. Tune in to find your own place in the conversation.
Author: Language: English Episodes: 50

What's Contemporary Now?
Podcast Episodes
Where Optimism Meets Realism with Carlos Nazario [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 31:52
It’s easy to repeat oneself in fashion. Certain truths return again and again, not because we lack imagination, but because they remain unresolved. One of them is this—authenticity isn’t rare because people are unwilling…
Met Ball Monday [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 0:58
It is Monday, but not just any Monday. It's the first Monday in May queue. The flash bulbs, the group chats, the live tweets, the MET Gala is here, and with it, the annual flood of speculation. Learn more about your ad c…
How Lyas Built a Career by Staying Unapologetically Untamed [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 33:31
Describing Lyas as a "fashion narrator" rather than a critic or commentator feels curiously apt in a moment when fashion could use a little more imagination and a little less judgment. Storytelling, after all, is what he…
Icons of the Edit: Paul Cavaco and Tonne Goodman [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 42:27
In fashion, there are stylists—and then there are image-makers. As the “C” in KCD and one of the first male editors to define women’s fashion editorial, Paul Cavaco helped shape the modern visual vocabulary of the 1990s,…
We Want to Hear From You [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 1:46
While it’s nearly impossible to open your eyes without encountering some news item signaling uncertainty or disruption, we couldn’t help but find excitement in the inevitability of change—even when that change isn’t exac…
Getting Beyond the Noise with Editor Sarah Richardson [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 20:33
Once upon a time—not so long ago—it was fashionable to declare that print would only endure if it became a luxury object. That forecast now feels less like speculation and more like prophecy. Today, conversation tends to…
Claire Thomson-Jonville and the Vogue France of It All [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 28:33
Some may have balked at the news that a Brit would take the helm of Vogue France, but anyone familiar with Claire Thomson-Jonville knows she has long been fluent in the visual and cultural codes that define the brand. He…
The Editor as Curator with Sarah Harrelson on Building CULTURED [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 25:16
Sarah Harrelson, founder and editor-in-chief of CULTURED magazine, joins us to discuss what it means to engage the culture rather than simply cover it. From her early training as a competitive equestrian to her unexpecte…
Mastermind, Media, and the Power of Time with Marie-Amélie Sauvé [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 22:14
Few figures have shaped fashion’s visual language like Marie-Amélie Sauvé. From her formative years at French Vogue to her lasting collaborations with Nicolas Ghesquière, she has navigated an industry that thrives on cha…
Beyond the Fit: Jahleel Weaver on Style & Cultural Influence [not-audio_url] [/not-audio_url]

Duration: 25:30
For years, celebrity stylists were seen as separate from those consulting for brands and shaping fashion imagery. But the red carpet, like concerts and live performances, is its own battleground - one where fashion meets…